Hot under the collar? The ruff is having a menswear rebirth

Courtesy of the brandsFebruary 6, 2026Fashion / So Hot Right Now Fashion / So Hot Right Now Hot under the collar? The ruff is having a menswear rebirth

From Dior to GmbH, the AW26 catwalks were awash with collars of varying degrees – but is menswear ready for the ruff renaissance?

ShareLink copied ✔️February 6, 2026February 6, 2026TextElliot HosteCollars and ruffs – AW26 men’s AW26 men’s Collars and ruffs

Gallery / 23 images

A few weeks ago, as I was sitting in London’s Eurostar terminal, waiting on a delayed train to Paris, a young woman next to me turned to who I presume was her boyfriend and doled out some unsolicited fashion advice. “Look,” she said, pointing to a gilet-clad Man in Finance. “I just think men in turtlenecks look so stupid.” I fear if this lady had been born in the 16th century, she’d have a pretty hard time going about her life. Back then, it wasn’t merino wool from Uniqlo that adorned men’s necks – it was gigantic cartwheel collars, solid, starched, and sticking 12 inches out past their faces. And if she’d taken a trip to the menswear shows across the Channel, she would’ve found it wasn’t just scary turtlenecks on display – the Elizabethan ruff had been reborn on the runway, alongside even more collars and bows of varying degrees.

Before the catwalks had even begun, Jonathan Anderson was already getting ruff and ready, sending out an ivory collarette as the Dior AW26 invite. On the runway, the invitations came to life, with models wearing the old-timey accoutrements beneath overcoats and blazers, while guests across fashion week were already in on the trend, wearing their own versions in starched cotton or knitted wool.

Guests at Paris Fashion Week men’s AW26Photography Yu Fujiwara

Elsewhere, other designers’ interpretations of the ruff were less literal, with most opting for modern-day faux fur versions. On the LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi catwalk, model Callum Harper appeared shirtless, bar a curly, shearling creation slung over his shoulders, while over at Feng Chen Wang, similar styles appeared in pink, taupe, and faded turquoise. In Berlin, at GmbH, designers Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Işik accessorised their club-ready looks with detachable fur ruffs that folded down to cover the shoulders, while Copenhagen brand Ranra also debuted high-neck fur collars at their city’s fashion week.

So, if the men’s catwalks are anything to go by, the ruff has been reborn for the modern day – but it’s not only that style of neckwear that’s booming in popularity. Things began last season when Anderson, for his SS26 debut, kitted out half his models in satin neckbands with bows attached to the front. Fast forward to AW26, and brands like Charles Jeffrey and Lanvin have shown similar neckband styles, while Dries Van Noten and even Louis Vuitton sent models down the runway with bow-like scarves knotted around their necks.

So, what does this renewed focus on fancifying the neck mean? In the 16th century, ruffs were all about denoting status, literally taking up more space in society with your outsized, imposing neckwear. If you’re reading this, you probably know that there’s nothing more status-driven than the fashion industry, so it seems that, on the catwalks, men are reclaiming their space by puffing out their collars and reminding us who’s boss. Go men! But, while the fashion industry gets hot under the collar, is the rest of society ready for a ruff renaissance?

Scroll through the gallery above to see this season’s take on the ruff

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Privacy policy ShareLink copied ✔️More on these topicsFashionSo Hot Right Now AW26Fashion WeekMenswearDiorLGN Louis Gabriel NouchiGmbHFeng Chen Wang